Travel Destination: Sardinia

Sardinia is the second largest island in Italy, located in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its remote location did not keep it from becoming one of the most popular summer destinations for affluent and middle class Italians alike and one of the most romanticized spots for a vacation by the sea. The eastern coast of Sardinia, also known and the “Costa Smeralda” or Emerald Coast, is coveted, romantic and absolutely spectacular. For the most part, that’s where the rich and famous can be found. The sea, thanks to its white rocky bottom, takes an azure hue and is absolutely crystal clear. On paper, Sardinia has always been the place where the women are beautiful, the summers are endless and life is at its best. It is the island equivalent of Sudtirol

Sardinia is the larger island east of mainland Italy[/caption] After spending about a week on the island, running, swimming and eating fish and figs, I learnt a lot more about the culture, background and history of this spectacular place and it all makes me want to go back. Sardinia is remote and sparsely populated. There is really one “city” on the island, Cagliari, albeit on loose terms. Everything else falls into the town category: small communities with ancient centers, great restaurants and sleepy beaches and ports. Ferries and planes land daily, dumping thousands of tourists who, for the most part, head to the eastern coast and ignore the west coast. This is partly due to the fact that the eastern coast is a bit more developed and more sheltered from the winds. The western coast, from Alghero to Bosa, looks very familiar to Highway One in California, minus the Redwoods and marine layer. Steep white cliffs, rocky outcroppings, dry climate, bushes and shrubs, with very few trees. The Tyrrhenian Sea is breathtaking but, on the west coast, can also turn violent in a minute, thanks to a strong easterly wind called the Maestrale.

Similar enough to California[/caption] On my first day there, while staying in the small port of Porto Alabe, I went for a spectacular run from the port, up to the town of Magomadas, across to Tresnuraghes and back down to Porto Alabe. Overheated and thirsty, I slipped my running shoes off and reached the water. The sea was a little rough, but nothing I had not experienced before. I jumped in, diving under the first and second wave. In a second, I realized the sets of waves were very irregular, close to each other and coming at me from two different directions. The rip current was also stronger than expected and, since the beach dropped steeply, I could not touch the bottom just a few feet from the shore. I looked back and realized I was getting pulled out and the waves were coming in so fast I was having a hard time breathing. Controlling my breathing, I stopped fighting the current, started making my way perpendicularly to the beach and eventually gained some ground. I reached the beach a little battered but unscathed, except for my pride. The sleepy Tyrrhenian Sea had kicked my butt and taught me a lot of respect.

A view of Porto Alabe[/caption] The day after, the wind had died and the Sea was a sheet of glass, under which lied a spectacular underwater world of unique and breathtaking beauty. To visit Sardinia and experience the best of it, here are a few tips that will make your trip much more secluded and enjoyable. 1) The best summer months are June, July and September. Avoid August, as this is the busiest tourist season. Sardinia is beautiful all times of year and the mountains in the center of the island can get snow in the winter. 2) Reach Sardinia by plane instead of by Ferry. The Ferry takes almost a full day, while the plane takes a few hours. Once in Sardinia, you can rent a car and go at it. However, plan your rental and plane ticket in advance. 3) The low-cost European airlines are reliable, incredibly cheap and really professional, so use them as much as you can. RyanAir and Volotea service Sardinia daily from mainland Italy and, best of all, the prices remain constant through low and high season: what a concept! 4) Apartment rentals are cheap and better than hotels. The hotels on the east coast can get very expensive and the ones on the more remote west coast can be a bit dodgy. 5) Explore the restaurants and local customs. Sardinia’s most numerous inhabitants are the sheep, producing an array of cheeses and sheep products you won’t find anywhere else on earth. 6) The history in Sardinia is fascinating. The ancient Nuragic civilization, approximately 3,500 years old, is characterized by round rock fortresses called “nuraghi” and is still well preserved today. It also includes a fascinating array of megalithic sites similar to other island cultures such as Easter Island. The island was invaded and conquered by a long list of cultures, including but not limited to the Phoenicians, Romans and Germanic tribes, all leaving behind necropolis, thermae and amphitheatres. Most recently, the Spaniards invaded the island in the 1,400AD: all of their rock towers used to protect the western sea from invaders are still present today, one right in Porto Alabe. If you are passionate about history, Sardinia will be a wonderful and less traveled playground. 7) A car is the best way to travel arond the island, but busses and trains are also very reliable. 8) In Sardinia, you will find a way of life that is disappearing from the World. Enjoy a slower, simpler way to live and take the best of it back home with you: you’ll be a better person because of it.

Sardinia is a nice place to spend some vacation time[/caption]